Pattern straight skirt: building
The skirt has always been considered the most important element of clothing in the women's wardrobe. The special feminine silhouette, which she attaches to the image, cannot be ignored. And for those who like to create beautiful things with their own hands, it will not be superfluous to know how the straight skirt pattern is built, especially since independent tailoring not only saves finances, but also allows you to achieve a perfect fit.
Straight skirt goes to almost everyone, it is considered a classic of women's business style, but when choosing a certain group of fabrics with prints, severity immediately disappears, and playfulness and romance come to replace it. On the basis of a straight skirt, all the styles of this piece of clothing are built, so knowledge of how the pattern of a straight silhouette is constructed opens up unlimited possibilities for fantasy.
How to sew a straight skirt? Build a pattern, cut the fabric and collect all the details - there is nothing difficult, but only for those who have already practiced such exercises.But the novice handy step by step instructions. So, how to build a straight skirt pattern? First you need to measure the figure, namely the volume of the hips and waist, as well as to determine the length of the finished thing. It is these three quantities that are needed to develop a pattern.
Pattern or drawing on fabric
Do I need a pattern in order to get a perfectly fitted straight skirt? The pattern, the construction of which can be made directly on the fabric, is very easy to draw, so it is not necessary to make a paper template. However, if you plan to sew more than one product, then, of course, it will be easier to have one on hand, so that next time you do not die out the proportions and do not waste time on the drawing. Paper preparation in the future can only be cut around and proceed to cutting and assembly.
Building a pattern
One way or another, but the drawing will have to be done. Pattern straight skirt is not built in full size, but in half, along the line of the middle. If the construction is performed directly on the fabric, then it must be folded in half face inward strictly along the lobe thread. The top and bottom of the product are marked with a bend, 20 cm below from the top - the line of the hips.This value can be slightly reduced in accordance with the features of the figure, but often it is considered constant. Along the thighs, they set aside 1/4 of the volume of the thighs and parallel the fold. Next, the pattern of a straight skirt is fitted to the waist. First of all, it is necessary to note 1/4 of the volume, and then evenly distribute the difference between the volumes of the hips and the waist, denoting the places of the patterns. How to do it?
For example, the volume of the hips is 90 cm, and the waist is 60, the difference is 30 cm. It is clear that if you just draw a bevel along the side seam, the product will not sit as expected, because there is a bend not only on the side, but also on the back. Therefore, taliievye tucks need to be distributed on the sides and on the back panel. So we postpone 22.5 cm along the hips and 15 cm - at the waist. After from the vertical bend of the vertical at the waist lay 4 cm and draw a smooth bend of the side seam. 18.5 cm remains free, 15 of which is a necessary quantity, and 3.5 cm are darts that should be distributed. It can be two tucks at the side on the front panel and two tucks in the middle of the half of the back part.
Nuances of cut
The shape of each woman has its own characteristics, and therefore each feature of the building must be approached individually.
For example, if the belly is convex, then the tucks on the front panel only emphasize this shortcoming. Exactly, as in the hollow stomach, the fabric will gather in unnecessary folds. In such cases, the pattern of the straight skirt is built with darts exclusively on the back panel.
Straight skirt will not look on a woman with a large amount of hips and thin calves. Here it is best to narrow the side seams to the bottom by about 5-7 cm. By the way, this will not just be a straight skirt, but a so-called pencil.
Almost all women are straight long skirt. The pattern, the construction of which is described above, is ideal for making it. The only thing that will need to think about such a detail as a cut for a free step.
By the way, the cut or the slot is not needed only in short skirts about 20 cm above the knee. In all other models without them, the product will hamper movement.
Straight skirt styling
What could be a straight skirt? The basic pattern with your own hands, namely the wizard called the pattern of this product, is built quite easily and allows you to simulate completely different variations of the skirt. Tucks, folds, cuts, slot - all these parts are built directly on the main pattern and transferred to the fabric.
Suppose you need a straight wrap skirt.Pattern-base is ready, which means that you can start modeling. First of all, we determine where the smell will be: right on its side or slightly offset to the center of the front. After cutting out of paper, not half, but a solid part of the front, draw a cutting line and remove the excess (this is the part for overlap). Further, when cutting, it will be necessary to carve out not only an integral part of the front, but also a part that will find overlap.
On the basis of a straight skirt, they also make a tulip skirt, which is so popular now. To do this, on a solid template, mark the places of future folds and draw it. After all the tags you will need to notch to the very edge of the bottom of the product, fixing the depth of each fold with scotch tape, moving the strips of the template apart.
A straight skirt will not be too boring if you add relief seams to it, a cut on one of the knees or instead of it a bant inner fold. At first glance, it may seem difficult to make them, but the main thing is to understand the principle, and then the possibilities will be endless. So, in order to make a cut in front of the skirt, on the template of the front panel, you need to outline it and cut in this place the detail from top to bottom.After sewing, this stitch will need to be closed only to a certain height and the incision must be processed.
Also do not forget about such decorative items as pockets. They can be slotted with a zipper, overhead or hidden in the seams.
The last peep of fashion is the zipper on the middle back seam of the skirt, which is unbuttoned from both sides. Thanks to such a decorative element, you can easily make a back section of the required depth. About 25 cm above the knees and 10 cm before reaching the top of the inside of the zipper, you can insure a strip of fabric that does not allow the spiral teeth to spread at the most inappropriate moment.
The main elements of the assembly
When sewing it is important not only to cut out the details correctly, but also to adhere to the assembly sequence. So, you should first sweep the side and rear sections and sew a zipper, and then only close them completely. Only after the fastener is sewn in, you can proceed to the processing of the top and bottom of the product.
It is not necessary to make a belt on a skirt; To do this, from the main fabric, duplicate the upper section with darts approximately 7 cm in height and fix the dubbing on the side sections.
The easiest way to handle the cut on the skirt is stitching. In other words, pre-tilted cuts are closed to a certain length, leaving the desired cutting height. After the product from the inside out it is stripped and the free edges are pressed to the very bottom, then a line is laid along the cut contour along the edge of the turned sections. Next will hem down, and the cut is ready.
The choice of fabric
An important role, along with a well-constructed pattern and accurate processing, plays a choice of material. Strict straight skirt will look great from the costume group of fabrics, but the knitwear will allow you to create a perfectly fitting silhouette. Thin fabrics, such as staples, will be very rumpled, so this is not the best option for a summer straight skirt. But flax or cotton with a stretch fit great.
For the winter version of the skirt, wool and blended fabrics are perfect, as well as cotton with a fine fleece. However, the choice is to remember that some materials can add volume visually. For example, tweed, boucle, velvet or large velvet is not too desirable to use for sewing skirts for women with curvaceous.But the smooth fabric with weaving "hem" or "herringbone" in a vertical position stretched silhouette and make it slimmer.