Women's coat: a pattern. Pattern of a female winter coat
All needlewomen know how muchyou can save a family budget if you sew things for the family and for yourself. Often sewing costs several times cheaper, and things are better than market ones. Naturally, to achieve an excellent result, experience will be required, but even if it does not exist, such a practice will not pass in vain and will be useful in the manufacture of other things. So, it's time to arm yourself with scissors, a sewing machine and a centimeter tape, purchase materials and start working.
A little theory will make it possible to understand howconstruction of the pattern of a female coat. In fact, there is nothing complicated in the drawing, and the process itself involves transferring the measurements taken from the figure to paper to form the product template. Therefore, a little zeal and patience - and you can enjoy the result. A variety of sewing editions offer a ready-made pattern of a woman's coat. "Burda", for example, is one of the most popular. However, self-construction has several advantages, because it uses not standard common standards for a certain size, but personal measurements. That's why the product will fit much better in the figure.
In this article, a female coat will be considered: the pattern by which it is sewn, and its construction, as well as materials that are better used in the work.
In order for the product to sit well on the figure and repeatall the bends of the body without creases and unnecessary folds, it must be sewn in view of the features of the build. It is for this purpose that measurements are made. The female base coat pattern requires the following measurements: neck, chest, waist, hips, upper arm, groove tuck, back width, height from shoulder to center of chest, to waist (on back and across chest), shoulder width , the length of the sleeve and the whole product. All these values need to be recorded and you can start working on the drawing.
The first stage of the construction of the basis: the grid
Like most products, a pattern of femaleWinter coat is built in a rectangle, divided into sections by additional lines. It is called the basic grid. The vertical side of the rectangle should be equal to the length of the product, and the horizontal side - to measure "breast volume" + 3 cm for free fit. The upper limit determines the level of the shoulder. It should be lowered to the height of the chest and horizontal in the chest, below the waist and even lower - the hips.
From the vertical side along the line of the breast on the leftit is necessary to lay half the breadth of the chest, and from the right - half the solution of the darts. From the points obtained, raise the perpendiculars. After the semipartition of the breast should be divided into 4 parts and add 2 cm to the obtained value. The corresponding distance should be put on the chest line from the point determining the width of the back, put a point and raise the perpendicular. Thus, the base grid will appear, where the back zone, the armhole area and the front shelf zone are already designated. The area of the armhole along the breast line should be divided in half and the perpendicular downwards - this will be the boundary of the side seam of the product. On the basis of this grid, any product, including a woman's coat, is built. The pattern at this stage requires the finalization of the details, and it can be used as a template.
The second stage of the construction of the basis: details
The rest of the process is to refine the details.
- In the upper corners of the rectangle, retract by ¼ measure of neck circumference and outline the neck. The back is deepened by 3 cm, on the front - by 7 cm.
- From the points obtained, shoulder sections are constructed. They should be beveled about 1.5 cm to the center of the rectangle.
- On the shoulder of the front shelf from the perpendicular,raised from the boundary of the groove solution, retreat 3 cm and lower the straight line to the same point. The shoulder suture is extended by the same distance (3 cm). It will be a dart for the chest.
- From the shoulder points, the armhole is drawn to the center point, from which the lateral seam emerges.
- If the model does not provide trailing taps,then immediately move to the hip line. From the verticals of the rectangle, along the corresponding line, lay by 1/2 the measurement of the hip circumference and put the dots. Side seams, if necessary, extend from the center of the armhole to the hips. If desired, the coat can also be made a trapezoid.
- If there are provided thawed taps, thendetermine the difference in hip and waist sizes and the resulting value is distributed into darts. Their top should reach the breast line, and the bottom end at a distance of 5 cm from the hip line.
What kind of coat can a woman be? The pattern can be built with a one-piece sleeve or with a v-neck. The first option is simpler and involves extending the shoulder seam to the required size and constructing a lower cut of the sleeve from the side seam. This is an ideal option for a beginner. If the minimal practice of sewing things is already there, then you can work on the vtachnym sleeve.
To build such a sleeve you need readypatterns of shelves. It will be necessary to circle the rounds on the finished armhole. To do this, the templates of the shelves are folded over the shoulder and a sheath is cut. After it is overestimated by 1.5 cm and dorisovyvayut on its basis an even circle. At the bottom of this circle, draw a line on which the width of the upper arm is + 2 cm to fit freely. Next, it will be necessary to lower the lines for the seam of the sleeve and outline it along the circle of the pellets, taking it out to the points of the width of the arm. At this stage, all the templates are ready and you can cut out a female coat. The pattern of this product can be used for both warm clothes and a summer cardigan. It will only be necessary to add different allowances for free fitting and insulation of the product.
A ready-made pattern of a woman's coat can berefined. Here it is possible to design relief seams, pockets, additional decorative elements, such as fasteners for fastening, double back in the zone of blades and so on. You can also think about shoulder straps, a hood on the back at the waist and other elements.
Choice of fabric
For a coat is best to choose soft and warmlinens, such as polor or cashmere. But here it is worth noting that often such things are blown by the wind. Therefore, if you need a warm winter coat, then the best option will be a plaschevka with a special impregnation, which should be duplicated with a synthon or other insulation.